WINE REVIEW
I previously tried this wine back during the first Covid lockdown, then with an unassuming white label handwritten with 2015 ‘Name Yet Unknown’. Winbirri’s Lee Dyer explained to me that it was the ultimate manifestation of his Rioja-inspired approach to red winemaking. Now appropriately dubbed ‘Grand Reserve’ (clearly again drawing parallels with Rioja’s Gran Reserva), this is like 100% Rioja that was aged in oak barrique for 36 months, and it has spent the past five or so years in bottle, continuing to rest patiently until its recent release.
The colour is pleasingly deep ruby in hue, and the nose is a welcoming mixture of dark cherry, vanilla and tobacco, with hints of smoke and prunes.
While being something of a long-time sceptic of the Rondo grape (though Lee’s standard ‘Reserve’ Rondo was previously one of the few notable exceptions), the Grand Reserve immediately won me over on the palate. There’s a lovely, rich, plummy, ripe cherry warmth to the fruit. There’s also a lovely, rounded tannic texture, and the fresher fruit flavours are supported by a deeper, smoked prune and tobacco spice complexity.
This is incredibly accomplished, with a medium body and a moderate ABV of 11% that ensures it’s never heady in the way that warm climate reds can be.
