‘A nation that destroys its soils destroys itself.’ These words of US President Franklin D. Roosevelt, uttered in February 1937, came to me when listening to Mark Sainsbury, Craig Livingstone and Samuel Philippot, joint owner, Farm Manager and Vineyard Manager respectively of Candover Brook. They each contribute to a sustainable, regenerative and transformative vineyard that supports an ecosystem where a variety of organisms can live happily side by side. This Hampshire vineyard, 15 miles north of the South Downs escarpment, lies in an open valley, near one of the country’s unique chalk streams. It was the brainchild of the late John Sainsbury, chairman of the retail chain, and the father of joint owners Mark and Julian. Having spent time in Champagne, John had the dream of creating a little bit of Épernay in the countryside north-east of Winchester. That dream became reality when in 2012 John, Mark and Julian planted 5 and a half hectares of the three classic Champagne grape varieties. Now celebrating the release of their second vintage (2019), it’s time to trumpet their success and tell people about what they have to offer.
And so it was that I and 20 other journalists, marketeers and agronomists gathered in Mark’s house in a quiet corner of Clerkenwell to hear about their commitment to sustainable farming practices, specifically Regenerative (NOT Organic!) Agriculture, and other matters viticultural and vinicultural. Mark opened by explaining how his father’s passion for wine led him to seek the viability of a vineyard on the farm they had bought in Preston Candover and how John Ashburton, who was a partner in nearby vineyard The Grange, spurred him on in a spirit of friendly rivalry. In fact, Candover Brook share equipment and a vineyard team with The Grange, and this collegiality extends not just to their neighbours but also to fellow Hampshire vineyard Hambledon: Hambledon’s wine consultant Hervé Jestin is called upon when blending takes place and former Managing Director Ian Kellett has lent his expertise.
Mark mentioned that his background in retail and hospitality has made him conscious of the notion of ‘value’, both to the customer and the community at large. He sees those involved in the vineyard as being stewards of the countryside, and his business as not merely a monocultural entity but one that puts something back – back into the soil and the fraternity that lives nearby. An example of this stewardship is their conservation work both for the chalk stream and those creatures that live in it, notably the native White-Clawed Crayfish which is threatened by the introduction of American Signal Crayfish; the crayfish is part of Candover Brook’s branding. In addition, 50p of every bottle sold locally is donated to Hampshire’s wildlife trust. Also they have forged connections with local theatres, art galleries, caterers and charities, and hold events at the vineyard (such as a screening of Six Inches of Soil, a documentary film about the resourcefulness of British farmers).
Craig started his definition of Regenerative Farming by telling us what it is not. It does not involve the use of industrial fertilisers or pesticides, nor the over-cultivation of soil. Regenerative Farming is essentially about eliminating that reliance. It all starts with that soil, he says – there are numerous types at Preston Farm from shallow chalky soil to heavy clay – and if that is covered sufficiently then it is doing its (invisible) job in nurturing the vines. Livestock provide natural fertiliser as does a healthy invertebrate population. Samuel, as a winemaker, fully endorses this approach and says that with fewer but more natural nutrients applied to the vines, the fruit is more resilient and resistant to disease. He pointed out that they spray reactively (when it is needed) and they have a range of options because the vineyard is not certified Organic. But he says they adopt a “cautious” approach because he doesn’t want too much copper (which is actually allowed in Organic farming) in the system. Sam said he had noticed that the reduced yields resulting from Regenerative practices mean that the skins retain more flavour and the wine more complexity.
Candover Brook’s approach is to produce refined wines with perhaps a fuller body than some typical examples of English Sparkling Wine. Malolactic Fermentation helps with this, as does a little oak, but the refinement comes with extra time on the yeast in tank, on the lees in bottle, and with cork age. “We’re in no hurry”, said Mark. Liberty Wines distribute Candover Brook’s wines nationally, but they also have a strong sales presence in Hampshire with bottles in Naked Grape in Alresford, Auriol Wines in Hartley Wintney, farm shops such as Wellington Farm Shop near Hook and, across the Surrey border, Hawkins Brothers and Wine Yard in Farnham. As for the future, there are no plans to expand on their 20,000 bottles a year average. What will change is an increased emphasis on a customer-focussed experience at the vineyard, including a cellar door, tours and possible glamping.
With the Q & A over, we retired to taste the wines accompanied by delicious tapas provided by Moro (Mark co-founded the Clerkenwell establishment in 1997). On tasting the Brut (2018 base) I was immediately struck by the signature chalky minerality and clean acidity found in sparkling wines made on Hampshire chalk. There is also a creamy roundedness from the Malo and a subtle medley of orchard and red berry flavours. The Rosé (also 2018 base) is a very food-friendly, grown-up wine with savoury and biscuit notes along with a gentle undertow of cranberry and redcurrant fruit. Of the two I, perhaps controversially, think that the rosé might have the greater ageing potential.
My final reflections? I was particularly impressed by the professionalism and the collective nature of Candover Brook’s ethos. Everyone has bought into Mark’s philosophy of ‘steady as she goes’, not chasing the quick buck, and acting for the greater good for the soil, the vines and the community in particular, and the planet generally. ESG (Environment, Social, Governance) is now a well-established framework for sustainable business practices and responsible business conduct. ‘Environment’ (the ‘E’) is about business’s impact on the natural world; ‘Social’ (the ‘S’) concerns the company’s contribution to communities and wider society; and finally ‘Governance (the ‘G’) covers how businesses conduct themselves, the internal procedures that are in place to ensure that standards and values are maintained and executed with transparency and integrity. It seems that Candover Brook scores particularly highly by all these indicators, doing ‘the right thing’ for the environment and people.
Mark said in response to one question: “We’re not going to grow, but we are going to get better and better.” Quality, rather than quantity, is his watchword. Over-production isn’t either, as that doesn’t fit in with his drive for sustainability. Response to climate change is going to require a collective effort. Mark Sainsbury, and all at Candover Brook, can look back in their dotage and say they did their bit.
