Wandering Wayfarer Bacchus 2022

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WINE REVIEW

Wayfarer Wines are certainly tucked away. But there’s no excuse for not finding them if armed with Sat Nav and a little persistence. From Lower Susans Hill near Woodchurch, follow the signs for a ‘farm shop’. Once there you will find a delightful tasting room selling the full portfolio of wines and an ample seating area for enjoying them, perhaps with the accompaniment of a local cheese platter.

With five members of the Ashford family (and two dogs) involved in one way or another, this is certainly a close-knit operation. They have two vineyards totalling eight acres but their wines are currently made by Defined Wines. These currently total four whites (Bacchus, reviewed below, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and a Bacchus/Ortega blend) and two rosés (dry and off-dry).

The Bacchus 2022 is partially aged in oak with periodic lees stirring, creating a sophisticated and complex Bacchus that contrasts with more linear, refreshing iterations of the variety. On the nose there are vibrant notes of gooseberry, elderflower, lychee and mint which promise a layered palate.

The term ‘linearity’ can often be a criticism as well as a compliment. The palate is anything but linear (and this is a compliment!), with the initial flavours reminding me of Sauvignon Blanc (gooseberry and passion fruit). Yet the finish is unmistakably Germanic/English with lime and spicy bell pepper flavours coming to the fore. There’s also a hint of vanilla ice cream from the oak treatment.

A relatively new name on the Kentish wine scene (the first vines were planted in 2016), and with plans to double their acreage, Wayfarer is a name to watch.

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